If there was a change in direction—let's say by half a degree—for Paglialunga, it was in a subtle shift towards more relaxed separates. A pair of pants that verged on jeans, and worn with a soft blouse and loden blazer, bordered on "off duty". Still polished, of course.
But in general, it was the business of beautiful clothing as usual. There were hints of the '70s in wrap coats (though cut slimmer and more modern), stacked heels (in bright orange leather boots), oversized sunglasses and color-blocked turtlenecks. But it was so subtle it was barely there.
So often, an animalia dress or jacquard body suit was hidden under a double-breasted coat—as if a creature finding shelter for a minute. Just as in the wild, there was a natural sex appeal here. The girls were covered up for the most part, but perhaps it was the way the prints undulated across the bodies, carving out curves and swerves, or the way the explosion of print and color forces one's hand at confidence. Whatever. Simons had the crowd purring with excitement.
It's always fascinating when designers seem to strike upon the same idea or trend in a season. Did they call each other in advance and say, "Florals! Seventies lame!" But that they all are doing exposed Mary Shelley-like seaming and stitching is really...well, particular. It was one of the main threads, pardon, at Jonny Johansson's Acne show.