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1948 Charles James Silk Ball Gown US. In 1948 Vogue shoot by Cecil Beaton, this is 1 of James' iconic designs. He produced some of the most memorable garments ever made. He began his career in the 1930s + peaked from the mid-40s thru 50s. He personally draped + constructed his garments that bear the Charles James label, considered to be the only American to work in the true couture tradition. Used many historical references in shapes + construction, esp. draping from 1870s + early 20th c.