Onion Soup. From its humble beginnings—poor people’s food in ancient Rome—to its 20th-century vogue, this soup’s goodness increases with the amount of time you take to prepare it. There are luxuriously complex flavors locked away in these roots. Coaxing them out requires courtship, something deeper than a fast-food fling.
Portabella alla Puttanesca. Culinary tradition says it was born among the “working women” of Syracuse, Italy. More reliable sources say it was borne of necessity when a restaurant owner found himself with many customers and few ingredients. Whichever is true, puttanesca is savory to the core. This version adds portabellas for extra mm-mmm. Start the water first, and by the time your pasta is done, so is your sauce.