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In the middle of Koreatown's office buildings, strip malls, and karaoke bars is Commissary, a new produce-focused restaurant, co-owned by celebrity chef Roy Choi. It's perched on the second-floor roof deck of The Line Hotel, a stay with fastidiously curated amenities (a Poketo boutique in the lobby, another Choi eatery, Pot, custom bikes from local Linus Bikes, a roof-deck pool); and yet, Commissary manages to trump them all. Its wow factor? A 1,700 square-foot greenhouse